You’d be surprised how easy riding outside is when you’ve spent the whole winter with constant pressure on the pedals when riding.Read More
We had been climbing at our limit up this 8% cat 3 about 35 miles into things. The group was smashed behind us, and three of us had gone off the front.Read More
Power meter technology has changed quite a bit over the past 4 years. From a consumer standpoint, that means competition, price wars, and greater accessibility.Read More
Using a power meter to train can be the difference between a good season, and a bad one. Fundamentally, a pm simply tells you what you’re doing, regardless of how you feel you’re doing. It’s the hard facts of the pressure you’re putting on the pedals. But why do you need power on a mtb? Isn’t the power so variant that it is unusable?
Precise Efforts. In any given ride, you have specific goals. Let’s say I’m recovering, and want to push less than 200w average for a ride. If I’m feeling particularly perky, I might push the pace a bit unknowingly, and end up not achieving my goal! On the flip side of that, sometimes I’m out doing intervals (long or short) and want to hold a particular effort. Looking at power keeps me honest when I start to get tired, and that 300w feels so much harder than it did when I started! Your speed and heartrate can all fluctuate and are thus unreliable variables.
Pushing Limits. Ever been on a climb and you are on your limit trying to hold the wheel in front of you? When you glance down and see the power you are doing is well within what you did in training, that can provide you the confidence you need to hang on a bit longer! Sometimes it’s just a mental aid to tell you that what you’re doing is possible for you.
Efficiency. Mountain biking is about efficiency and momentum. The most efficient riders always win races as they know how to ride smoothly and evenly. Picking a good line and maneuvering around obstacles is just half the battle to being efficient. A good rider won’t spike their power output every time they hit a climb, or drop it when they are on a flat. Consistency is key, and you can only see how you’re doing when you have power to look and analyze that. Your average power shows you exactly what you averaged, while your normalized power eliminates the coasting and shows you what you could have done had you been even. The difference between those two values is how efficient you are!
Improvement. Like many, I use Strava to track my training data. Strava becomes a powerful tool when coupled with GPS, heart rate, and power; especially for a mountain bike ride. Take this scenario. I go on a training ride and hit a particular stretch of trail as hard as I can. When I get home, I look at all of my past efforts on that same trail and analyze the differences between my speed, heart rate and power. Your power then shows you if you're getting smoother as a rider or if you are wasting power. There have been plenty of times when I have gone slower, using more power on the trails, and that is always something to work on.
Pacing. There are very few mtb trails, courses and races that are 100% technical riding where steady efforts are impossible. Most have climbs, flats, or some smooth spots where you can hold a steady power for at least a minute or two. Being able to gauge your output in these sections is critical to finishing strong, and not burning out. Whether you’re out for a ride with friends or racing, staying within yourself at all times is the key to success.
Analysis. After a given ride or race, it’s helpful to look at what happened out there to see where you have weaknesses. Let’s say you were racing an STXC race and held onto the front group until the last lap, where you popped on one short roller. Going back to look at your power output very each previous lap would show you exactly what it took to hang on before, and from there you can approximate how much power you would need to hang on in the future. For instance, if you hit this roller 6 times during the race, and each time did 500w for 30 seconds, but on the last lap you only did 450w, then the problem becomes clear. Your training should then be focused to repeated 500w efforts.
This year I raced with power for every race and it was a whole different experience. I knew precisely how hard I had gone, what the training load of the race was on my body, and where I needed to improve in the future. During an XC race I did early in the season, I made sure to limit all of my climbing efforts to 400w and under. When I saw numbers over that, I immediately dialed it back so that I wouldn’t tire before the 90 minute mark. I also did a 100 miler a few weeks later. There, I used the pm similarly, but relied on it heavily as I raced all day. I set a goal for myself to climb at around 230-260w all day. Each climb I did I settled into a rhythm that achieved that target zone, never straying outside of it. My hope was that at the end of the day, I would feel good enough to be able to push harder than that for the final miles; I did.
Power meters are just as useful on a mountain bike as a road bike. It simply takes a bit more on the bike analytics and short snapshots of data processing to make it worthwhile.
Using a power meter to train can be the difference between a good season, and a bad one. Ironically, people seem to toss this out the window in the mountain bike world, being satisfied to only use a pm on the road. Why? Well, in the past their haven’t been many mtb options. Even recently, XX1 doesn’t have many options, with the only current offerings being from Stages and SRM. However, if you’re willing to do a bit of work, you can create a crank-based XX1 power meter using a Quarq. SRM and Stages are great options to be clear, they simply have limitations. Namely, an SRM is north of $2,200, and a Stages arm might rub on the rear chainstays of modern mtbs. So those are out for some of us. XX1 is unique in that it uses a single ring up front without a chain catcher. The chainring tooth profile is to blame for this as it dubbed “narrow-wide” in its profile. SRAM is not the only company to come up with such a thing though, and plenty of other folks like Wolf Tooth and Race Face, have developed their own custom rings. The problem is that most crank spiders are not single ring compatible, thus making former power meters not an option. We need a single ring compatible spider to build on. That's where Fetha comes in.
Get a used, compact, SRAM Quarq spider. The compact spider has a smaller BCD allowing for smaller rings to be mounted up. Add a custom Fetha narrow-wide 34t compact BCD chainring. Then, take your mtb crank arms with the proper Q factor, and mount them to the spider (note: SRAM crank arms will be required for a SRAM spider. Theoretically you could do this with any other branded Quarqs like Cannondale and Specialized). With the Fetha ring, mounted to the compact spider and SRAM crank arms, you’ve got yourself a working XX1 pm!
I’ve ridden mine now for hundreds of miles in races, training, mud and the rest. Not a single issue. I love XX1 and I love running power. Now I don’t have to choose between the two.
You've been using your power meter for a number of rides now and have an ever evolving power curve. Its good to get familiar with what the numbers are at a few different durations. Popular lengths that people use are 30 seconds, 1 minute, 5, 10, 20, 30 and 1 hour. Get familiar with those numbers as this is the essence of what the power meter, as a tool, provides.
During the season I often go to
which is a fast training ride on a rolling course. There is a neutral start, various climbs that are attacked, and two sprint points. I'll walk you through how I look at and use the data produced on this ride.
A few weeks ago I did my last WNW for the year. For the total ride I averaged 242w and had a normalized power of 293 (Strava calls this Weighted Average Power). The big difference between those two numbers automatically alerts me that there must have been some large spikes in power to weight the normalized power so much higher than the average power. If it had been a straight time trial, my normalized and average power numbers would be almost identical. As I look at my Best Efforts Power Curve I affirm this to be the case as my curve contains some high numbers for this ride.
Jumping down to the curve I look for any places where the two curves are close or intersect. For this ride, I see that I set a power record (354w) for the 10 minute mark. While dragging your cursor across the curve, a black line appears. If you click the curve, the black line will fixate in that position and highlight the part of the route where you made this effort. This new 10 minute record came when I attacked the first climb and went on a 10 minute long breakaway. It was rolling terrain with a few climbs at the beginning and more flats and downhills towards the end. The group was better able to work together on the flats to catch me, whereas on the climbs there is little to no draft, so everyone must work equally as hard.
Taking a step back from this rides data for a minute, here is where the rubber meets the road. That new 10 minute power record gives me a reference point for the future. I know that during a ride, I am able to put out 354w for 10 minutes. But what does that get me? Well, the next time I attack a group, or hit a 10 minute climb, I know that is where I should settle in. I will pick a cadence that suits me for the climb and target 350 watts as I climb. If I feel good towards the end and my heart rate isn't through the roof, I'll push a little harder for the final few minutes and potentially set a new record. So your historical data becomes a pacing tool.
This is why knowing your power numbers is important. If you don't know what your 5 minute power is, then when you're doing a 5 minute effort, you won't know how and where to gauge your effort. Strava has made this particularly easy to do because of their Segments feature. On any given segment, you can filter the leader board to show only your times. Some segments I have done over fifty times and have lots of data to look at to see how I have improved. There are a few segments that I use to consistently to see how my fitness is progressing. How many watts am I able to average up the Jerome Jay climb? Am I improving in my 7 minute power duration? Checking your times up segments paired with your power numbers will tell you definitively what is going on. Some segments can be aided by wind or pack riding, thus your power number becomes the truth about how hard you were really going.
There are many power meter users out there that suggest doing independent power tests regularly is the best way to set your power curve data. While this may be the purest way to do it, because of the advent of Strava, I never get on a trainer and kill myself for 5, 10, 20 minutes. I do occasionally go out and do a test of sorts though. There is a climb in Roanoke, VA, that I try to hit every time I'm there. Its just about 20 minutes and a great place to test power. Typically I will ride easy for a bit to warm up before getting to the base of the climb, then I will hit it at 95% of what I can do (I rarely go 100% unless I'm racing). When I get home I'll look at the climb on Strava and see how I did.
Another tab that is helpful on Strava is the performance tab. This shows a more detailed view of what your speed, heart rate, and power was doing over a customizable duration. For any segments I hit hard with testing in mind, I often look at the performance to see if there were any spikes in the power, if it was steady over the duration of the segment, if it dropped slowly, etc. This might give further insight as to how you performed. For example, you may see a steady decline in power. That would indicate that you went out too hard. The goal would be to see the power as even and as "flat" on the graph as possible.
In conclusion, the two main things you can use a power meter for are monitoring progress, and gauging effort. With those two abilities, you can more easily identify your weaknesses with hard data, and adjust your training accordingly. The motivation a power meter brings also cannot be understated. I often find myself staring at my Garmin, watching the numbers as I climb. If I'm going easier than I am capable of, I can read it right on the screen, and it pushes me to go deeper. Again, power meters are exceptional tools. They can tell us all kinds of things about our fitness. This is the tip of the iceberg in all that you can do with one. So go out, collect initial data, know your power records, and using that as motivation, go set new ones.
A power meter is a tool. While they do output complex data, at the end of the day, it is just data. Many feel overwhelmed with what to do with a power meter. Books have been written about the subject to try and capture how to most effectively use this tool. Often the very nature of this overflow of information causes potential users to be scared off, and end up not using these incredible tools that we have. But there is a simpler way, a more basic method to using them that is accessible to all.
When you first get a power meter, it is important to go out and ride with it even if you don't know what you're looking at. You'll begin the process of collecting the data you need to establish a baseline for understanding your personal power abilities. I use a
as a head unit and set my screens to include 3 second Power, Average Power and Normalized Power for a given ride. This tells me a few things specifically while I'm riding.
First, what power I'm doing at this exact moment. This is helpful for glancing down and seeing that in my 53x11, on a flat road, at 450w I'm going 30 mph. Or on a 5% climb at 300w I'm climbing at 12mph. It gives you an instantaneous snap shot of the effort you are putting out. Over time, this will help you get an idea of what your Perceived Exertion is at a given wattage output. Also, as you begin to learn your output abilities, you will discover what you are able to do for certain time intervals which will be important later on.
Second, your average power will depict what the average wattage has been for the duration of your ride. If you go up a 1 hour climb at 250w, turn around and coast down the other side of the mountain at 0w for another hour, your average for the ride will be 125w. This is a number that you can use to quantify how hard a ride was in real time. However, a road race would have lots of coasting at 0w which would influence the total average while a time trial would have a steady wattage output thus making them both (by the numbers) appear different. The road race will look like it was an "easier" ride, and the time trial will appear to have been more difficult because of the higher average. This is not always the case, but leads us to the third item.
Third, normalized power is an algorithm that outputs what the computer guesses you would have put out on average had the effort been "even" and devoid of any 0w moments. It eliminates the coasting from a ride and shows you what the effort really was on your body. You may often do fast road rides at an average of 250w but your normalized power could be closer to 300w. This would mean that if you had just gone out and done the same amount of effort in a time trial of that distance, you would have put out 300w to achieve approximately the same effort as the 250w average cost you. The reason for this is that often times in road rides, there are sharp spikes in effort or speed because of steep climbs, attacks, sprints, drafting, etc. The normalized number attempts to smooth this out and give you a theoretical number of what that effort was in terms of steady watts.
Now that you have your screens set up, you can begin collecting data. After a few rides, you will have what Strava calls a Best Efforts Power Curve that will show up on your ride page. This curve shows you the current ride power curve directly compared to your historical power curve. If you run your mouse along the curve, you'll notice that 3 values show: duration, power today, best power historically. You can adjust what your historical power shows by last 6 weeks, a given year, or a custom range. I always leave mine on the given year that I am in.
After a few tough rides and races, your power curve will begin to accurately represent what you are capable of. This is the key to your power meter, and it dictates everything that I do with mine.
Check out more in Part 2 of the series.
Power measurement is a funny thing. Depending on how you use it, you may be a slave to watching it and never push past your limits, or you might die a thousand deaths trying get the numbers just a bit higher. I fall somewhere in the middle, using a Quarq power meter to do it.